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Question:
I have an IRS out of a 1984 Jaguar XJ I wish to change gears out to a taller combo, any hints or words of advice, I have a reputable shop assisting but wondered if you all had any experiences you needed to share.

Mick in Omaha

Answers:
Dear Mick

Here are some answers for you:

Suggest his shop contact Brizio's Hot Rods in South San Francisco....
area code 415? either his shop has someone or they have it done....V

It's been a few years....

Jag rearends are pretty easy to work on, once you get the pumpkin out of
the cage. If a person can setup a 9" Ford or a 12 bolt Chevy rearend,
you can setup a Jag pumpkin, same process. Once pinion depth, bearing
preloads and backlash are set always check the contact pattern with
prussian blue.
That's the most important step when your putting plenty of power through
it.

Getting the pumpkin out of the cage can be a little tricky with all the
needle bearings at the pivot points, just disassemble slowly over a
large metal tray. You can build some cheap metal rods (match the thru
bolt diameter), the same width as the control arms, to hold the needles
in place when you slide the bolts through, or very carefully use the
heavy grease method to hold them in place. If you're keeping the
original cage, inspect it carefully for cracks, especially around the
lower flanges where the lower cover plate bolts on. They're known to
crack there. Wouldn't hurt to reinforce that area.

Not sure what's best these days, but check into several sources for the
the stub axle seals, these leak often. This is more important if you
keep the inboard brakes. The main cause of stub axle seal leaks is the
heat from the inboard brakes. Get the best material seals you can get,
and make sure you have plenty of air flow, even separate ducts, to keep
the rotors cool.

Long story short, if you can build a Cobra, you can disassemble the cage
by taking your time. If you're not comfortable with gear setup, take
just the pumpkin to a good shop and have it done, while the gears are
being setup, fully disassemble the cage, inspect all bearings, seals,
shafts and the cage itself, and get it ready for reassembly. I'm sure
there are a few manuals running around the Internet that would be
useful, just don't be afraid of all the special tools they mention, most
everything can be done with common tools.

 

Question:
I would like to find out if any members have installed the Momar injection system?
What other systems have members gone with?

I'm looking to do something because I'm tired of the vapor lock and boiling over.

Please let me know.

Thanks,
Boiling Fuel in Denver

Answers:
Dear Boiling Fuel,

Holley build a nice TBI system that is easy to install. I have installed these systems and it is as easy as a carb. Steve Norman

Had Momar installed in Denver. Instead of 3 months took 6. They installed PLASTIC fuel line which promptly sucked a hole into it. Momar is a good system - get it done somewhere else.
Mike

I have the Momar system. It took a little time to get it dialed in. But now it's working like a dream.

I used a stroker engine with big heads and a huge roller cam. The vacuum signal is almost nonexistent at low rpm's. Yet the engine idles smoothly at 850 rpm's, and drives in traffic almost as smooth as a stock engine. But when you mash the throttle, the car just screams and pushes you back in the seat. Adjustment is simple. Hook up the lap top, drive a little, and tap a few keys. You can change the jets (so to speak) without ever removing the seat belt.

The guys at S&S automotive are great to work with. Carl Wade knows every thing there is to know about Ford performance, and he's quickly passing that on to the younger generation (Dusty). The engine I built for my car is different than anything I've ever done before. New technology, new parts, new techniques.. I made some mistakes as part of the learning curve, and they really helped me fix those mistakes.

If I were building another car, it would have to have the Momar system on it. And I wouldn't build an engine without discussing it with Carl first. If this sounds like a commercial, it sort of is. I'm really impressed with the quality of the system, and the level of customer support. You just can't ask for anything better. --
.boB

My new motor with Momar should be running next week. I can provide info, rides, etc if club members want.
Don

Don?t know what the particulars of the boiling fuel are with your car, but before you change intake systems, you need to have the car evaluated by Lou Rivera, a club member. Boiling fuel is a very frequent problem in Colorado especially as the summer months start bring us warmer temperatures. He probably fixes one car a week with these exact issues by rerouting the fuel lines and/or installing a Kool Fuel system on the car. Most of these cars are kit cars or big hp muscle cars. Several club members cobra?s have already been fixed, but this problem is not unique to snakes. This is a relatively inexpensive and quick fix. Call Lou at 720.323.6814. This is worth your call and he generally can look at your car and tell you if he can fix the problem before he even gets started.
Dave White

EFI in general makes sense up here in the rarefied air and constant change in weather we have in Colorado. "It's the way things are going, and EFI cars/races ultimately enjoy more (usable) power. Cylinder to cylinder variations are reduced, the power can be tailored precisely, data logged, and less time spent on seemingly endless jet changes. When set up correctly, EFI engines run cleaner, with less fuel dilution or fouling when idling, or at light throttle settings. It's simply a better way to run an engine." (How to Build &Modify Ford FI 5.0-Liter V-8 Engines)

Stick with Ford EFI. No one has, or can, spend the millions to get an EFI system that runs reliable in all aspects of driving your car than Ford, GM, or the other carmakers. Millions of 5.0 Mustangs on the road use this system so you can't go wrong, not to mention parts are available anywhere, if for some reason you need a sensor or part on the road. Plus you can pull into any Ford dealer or Checkers far from home and have the computer scanned for an error code or root problem analysis. To preclude this from happening, I strongly suggest you buy a new sensor pack from Ford ($80) and preferably new harnesses or a good used one that has not been tampered with (or chewed on by mice). The aftermarket injection systems are for people that like to fiddle, and/or have the know how to fine tune timing and fuel at a specific RPM, or they can be trying to achieve a special look, i.e. downdraft injectors, fake carbs and air cleaner, etc. You rarely will see owners of aftermarket FI venture far from home or go on long road trips. Nothing wrong with that it just depends what you want to do with your car. Once you decide what you want out of your car, then perhaps ask a few guys that have been there done that and moved on.

FYI, there are several club members that can assist with an EFI conversion. Some names that come to mind are Chris Mahoney, Steve Knapp, and Tom Toledo.
Tom

I (Mike Thomas) have the Momar 4 pac EFI. It's quite pricey and may not be the best value but... It really looks good and when warmed up, is incredible. It starts every time and has not given me any problems. See attached.

My 2 cents worth:

Seems to me that Fuel Injection is being sold in Denver as a cure all. Kind of like "Snake Oil" You may not need it and it may not do you any good. If you are thinking about it, get a second opinion from someone who is not selling you a system. Momar is very pretty but I am not sure that it is any better than the Stock Ford product. I am running a '95 Mustang system and had enough money left to buy a Vortech Supercharger for what a Momar would have cost me. If you want - you can come for a ride. I cannot believe that Momar Injected cars will run any better than a Ford Injected car. If both are done right. I also feel that you can get your carb tuned for Colorado. Walt and Chip Hane, Lou Rivera and Keith Hall are just a few who can get it done for you. Again for a lot cheaper price than Momar. But the Momar does look good - but you have to open your hood a lot. Again - just my 2 cents worth. Dick


If none of these can help you, you might post your question on www.clubcobra.com

 

Question:
Where can I get a Tremec TKO transmission?

Answer:

Here are some of the answers to your question about buying a Tremec TKO transmission:

I will be placing a Tremec order with a west coast distributor on Sept 4th. Let me know what model you had in mind or I can help you with that decision if you wish. I will cover the shipping and taxes and can deliver it to you. The slipyoke, transmission mount and billet shifter are included in Tremec kits.

Let me know.

Regards,

Keith Hall
Westwoods Motor Classics
303 940-7958


Try Harry's Transmission in Denver used to be on Santa Fe now on West
Alameda, I think...ask for Butch

I highly recommend Walt or Wally at promotionpowertrain.com for any Ford Tremec application. They are the most knowledgeable folks I've come across. I have had a TKO 3550 in my Cobra for 8 years and just upgraded to the TKO 600. You might consider the McLeod hydraulic throw out bearing also. It's a great combination with awesome response. I have a used TOB off the 3550 if you're interested.

Rob at Blue Oval Performance in Englewood is competitive and can ensure that you get the right parts - Or, Forte's performance parts www.fortesparts.com if you want to order. 303-762-8298 is his (Rob's) phone. The part number depends on what ratios he wants and will depend on the current bellhousing he is using. TCET 4615 is a common unit for that application but has the .64 overdrive and the LOW first gear 3.27:1 ratio. The TCET 4617 has .82 overdrive and a 2.78:1 first gear, which might be better. Rob can help him pick the right one based on engine, power range of the engine, cam, and rear end ratio.

I ordered mine thur Advanced Transmission here in Ft Collins 970 416 0497. He did a good job of getting all the right stuff.

Call Keith Hall at (303) 940- 7958 or Patrick at Colorado Mustang sorry I do not have their phone #

I purchased mine through Max Zuckerberg (1.800.866.1520 ext 236) at Five Star Ford in Scottsdale Arizona. I have the Tremec TKO600 R58C (0.82 5th) which was $1595 (free shipping).

Good luck with your build and if you have anymore questions or if we can be of any service, just let us know.

 

Question:
I have heard several MHCC members talk about an "emergency kit" they carry in their Cobras. In general, what are the basic components of these kits? We are Cobra rookies and would like to be better prepared for day and overnight drives.

Thanks,
"Kitless" in Aurora

Answer:
Here are a few answers for you:

A few basic hand tools - socket set, screwdriver, pliers.
10' of baling wire
cable ties.
Parachute cord
Tire puncture repair kit
air compressor
cell phone
AAA card

------
.boB


$12 scissors jack from Walmart, or a couple of short 2x4/6's nailed together in stagger to create a field expedient drive up ramp.
A couple of cans of Fix-a-Flat
A couple of jumper wires with alligator clips soldered/crimped to both ends and about the length of your car (just in case you need to bypass a circuit or wire from one end of the car to the other)
A spare spark plug wire (longest one) and spark plug
fuses
electrical connectors/crimp ons
fuel line
Car cover in case you need to leave the car on the side of the road and it's raining, etc.
mechanics gloves
hand cleaner
first aid kit
spare coil and ballast resistor for the non-EFI guys
cheapo $15 code reader for the EFI guys
radiator stop leak
spare bulbs
continuity tester/voltmeter
tow strap
spare oil
spare wiper blade
Rain-X
spare rags, place a clean one behind your seat for wiping sweat or rain off your windshield
tool kit (bring only the common wrenches, screwdrivers, sockets you will need for your car)
Small handheld CB radio (Optional, and if traveling alone)
important phone numbers
take note from other's misfortunes and see what you could have done to avoid a similar situation with your car
spare lug nuts
All the above (except maybe the jack) will fit in a small rectangular Tupperware container (underbed storage type) with the hook side Velcro attached to the bottom. If you have carpeting in the trunk the container will stick to the carpeting and stay in place with the Velcro so it doesn't shift during hard cornering/acceleration.

Tom

Kitless,

I found a little tool kit at Target that includes a pretty good set of sockets, wrenches, Etc. Small and has a place for everything. Nice because you are not looking in the bottom of a bag for a socket when you need it. It also did not cost much - like only $50 or so.
I also have found that I buy two of most parts that break. Then replace one and carry the spare (not good for engines and transmission cause they weigh too much and take up too much room) Really a good idea if you cannot purchase the part in a Checker in Steamboat Springs and it has to be UPS'd to you on Monday. I carry most of this stuff in a soft sided bag which I can cram into a space in the trunk. Most of the stuff that Tom said he carries - I also have with me.
Also carry a Cell Phone and AAA card and a couple of Credit Cards with no limits.

Dick
 

Question:

I was recently driving my Little MR2 on I-25 got pulled over a ticked for not having a front license plate. It is not a big deal on points and only a $18 fine. But would not to make a habit of it.
At the MHCC annual meeting there was about 10 or so Cobras there I don't remember any with front plates on. Please share with me any ideas. That I can do with my Cobra.


Answer:

Here are some answers from many of our members:

I don't have a front plate on my cobra or my daily driver truck. I'm going to keep risking it...that's my idea. :)

You have 3 options to my knowledge.  1)  Suck it up and pay the fines to preserve the look of the nose.  2)  By a front lic. bracket from finish line www.finishline.com (They are sponsors of the MHCC) 3)  Keep your front plate handy behind the seat and place it up against the window when you park in an area that you think might be an issue.

On my car I just silicone the front plate on! HA!  I do know we have a judge that is also a member in the viper club and per him if putting the front license plate on will damage the value of the car substantially then per him don't do it? still who wants to be hassled for it.  Good luck

I have often thought of that since being pulled over years ago without a front plate on my RX-7. Maybe the cops go after the ricers for violating this law. That being said, I have never been pulled over for no front license plate on my Cobra and I've been driving it for over 3 years and over 20k miles. I have had cops give me thumbs up and even pull me over to ask questions about the car but nothing was mentioned about the front license plate. I do keep it in the trunk in case anyone asks. I have a front license plate mount that goes below the left or right marker laps but in my opinion it looks so ugly! I have heard people say on the FFCobra forum that since it's a classic car and there were no provisions made in the '60's for a front plate that the cops are more relaxed or tolerant regarding the lack of a front license plate. My opinion, go without it and take your chances. If you don't drive it very often then your exposure is minimal...

Here are a couple of links of interest:
http://www.ffcobra.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php/ubb/get_topic/f/1/t/077977.html#000001
http://www.replicaparts.com/

I have a front plate on mine. It was there at the annual Cobra meeting Jan.

I use a front plate holder that I got from www.replicaparts.com. It works very well, and withstands thousands of road miles and track blasts to 135mph without any problems.

Only $18? Consider yourself lucky! In Denver if you park your cobra on the streets at any time without a front plate, you'll probably be ticketed with a $30 fine. That includes Sundays (which are free parking days in Denver), the days the "meter patrol" is looking for every thing but expired meters.

Allen, Just enjoy your car and do not worry. If the police want they can pull you over any time and any where for any thing.  They have a great big book with things that they can write you tickets for.  The lack of front plates is in their book but at the very end of it.   They will use it if they have nothing else to do.  This is what Dr Cobra believes.  Just enjoy and have fun.  Oh and be safe also.

Dr Cobra


 

Question:

Does running a Cobra with a Posi traction type rear end cause any unusual steering problems when driving on winding mountain roads or on a race course?Maybe like an under or over steer problem that would not be present with an open differential?

Open for suggestions for Posi comments.

Answer:

Dear Open Vs Posi,

Here are a few answers that the expert staff at MHCC has submitted:

Dr Cobra

I have never experienced it in any vehicle that I have owned that has a Posi Traction rear end, including the Factory Five Cobra with the Mustang 8.8 Trac Loc.

A Detroit locker would/could cause the described effects. A standard positraction should not be noticeable unless wheel slip is present.

Now if the rear end you put in the car is a Detroit locker.. YES. When going around corners and pressing on the gas will cause lots of fun! On the normal traction lock type rears on dry pavement you will experience better traction. On an icy road even with a traction lock you might see the back of your car come around on you, especially if the rear is setup really tight. For dry weather driving a posi is the BEST!

Nope.

Posi is GM's name for their Limited Slip Differential (LSD). Ford's LSD is similar.

The biggest trick for a differential is allowing the two driven wheels to rotate at different speeds in a corner, but still allow for power to be applied to both wheels somewhat equally. A LSD is just that, limited slip. It's does not lock the axles together like a locker or a spool. It's uses a clutch pack to transfer some of the torque to the wheel with the least amount of traction. For most applications, this is more than adequate. If set up properly, it will not hinder cornering in any way.

A true locker, like the famous Detroit Locker, actually locks the axles together under power. It transmits the same amount of torque to both wheels. In off roading or drag racing, this works extremely well. It will actually rapidly lock and unlock when cornering under power. You can actually hear it clicking in the corners. It can cause the car to become unsettled in hard corners, or make the car loose when traction is poor, like rain or snow. Anybody who's ever driven a 60's Ford muscle car knows about this.

The best differential for this kind of car is a worm drive, like Torsion or Detroit TruTrak. This has no clutch pack or locking spool. It smoothly transfers power to the wheel with the most traction. Cornering is slightly enhanced over a LSD. There is no clutch pack to wear out.

Consensus is "Posi is best" - but if you really really want to use an open Ford 9" rear end - call me (Dick Thompson 303-699-4819)  I have one for sale.  3.55 gears. 

Dr Cobra

 

 
Question:

Dear Doc,

I have a crazy friend that is considering adding a top to his Midstates Cobra. Considering that he is 6'1" would a soft top or hard top have better head room? Given your experience would you recommend a soft top so that it can be stowed in the trunk, or a hard top for a better seal and sound deadening? I will pass your reply on to my crazy friend, he thanks you in advance for your help.

Topless

Answer:

Dear Topless:

Here are a few answers from some of MHCC members for you:

I have a Midstates hard top for sale if they are interested. Contact Leslie at FAST428@aol.com

I think a lot of that depends on what you're going to do with the car. If you're going to be traveling a fair amount, then get the soft top. It's nice to put in the trunk, and then use when the weather is bad - like coming home from Grand Lake.
If you're never going far out of town, the hard top is probably better. It looks better, doesn't flap around. and probably doesn't leak as much.
--
.boB

I am 6'2" with a hard top and love it. I have NO head room problems, but I am sure that all has to do with the manufacturer. It makes "crawling" in my cobra a bit more interesting, but adds a more enjoyable dimension to the whole cobra ambiance. In the summer, you don't get as sunburned. In the winter you stay warmer. I get a lot of positive comments about the hard top (it also makes your drive down the road lot longer....). After having a hard top, I love it and would never get a soft top.
Jim

Topless,

Dr Cobra believes that a Cobra was not meant to be an all weather car.
As Hal Copple says so well on the MHCC web site:
"If you want to just gas and go, and never have to worry about replacing an alternator, or snuggling down the header bolts, or getting a wet leg driving in a rainstorm, or learning how to set your carb float level, or driving in traffic on a warm winter day
with "winter gas" in the tank, get a Corvette. "
We have a soft top and in the 10 years that we have owned the car we have used it maybe 4 or 5 times. Not worth the money. It leaks. It makes a lot of wind noise. It takes up too much of the valuable room in the trunk. You cannot see out of the rear or side windows. And did I mention that it leaks? And by the time you get it put up in a rain storm - it quits raining.
But if you must have one - I would suggest a soft top. You can have it just in case and do not have to worry about what to do with it - if the weather turns. And the weather in Colorado does turn on you in a hurry most of the time.
And the Cobra looks really weird with a top on it.
Just my 2 cents worth

Dr Cobra

 

 

 

 

 
Question:

Why do people sell Cobras with very low mileage?

As someone who has been looking at Cobra ads for a while, with the intent of
buying one sooner or later, I am struck by how many Cobras for sale have only 1000 to 4000 miles on them.

This raises a red flag in my mind.

- Is it because the maintenance is very steep? (doesn't seem like it would
be, for a simple car with a Ford engine).

- Is it because people discover that it's hard to find a place to drive it
the way they want to?

- Or is it because they discover they can hardly get out of the driveway
without getting a speeding ticket?

- Or is it that insurance is very, very, very expensive?


Your insights would be much appreciated.

Thomas

Answer:

Thomas,

Here are some answers for you:

I found none of the above to be a problem - I couldn't handle telling people the truth - it is a replica, kit car - not a "real Shelby cobra" and although it was very fast and fun - (I had invested over $60k) in a imitation car!

I tried twice in the last few years to buy a "real" cobra (for way to much $$$ for their worn-out originals) - but the sellers backed out both times.

I'm going to restore a "real " classic again, not to return to replicars.

You don't buy a Cobra because it makes sense. You buy a Cobra to a). Show off. B). Show off and C). Show off.

Its not practical. It usually does not get good fuel mileage. Many times it can be unreliable, noisy, and sometimes they don't really handle all that good.

But if you want to feel Cool, and feel the excitement only a Cobra can give, then you too can be a Cobra guy.

Maybe.

Maintenance on these cars is really no more than any other car of it's type. Tune up and oil change once a year, that's really about it for a mild street car. Exotic builds and race cars of course require more. I'v never gotten a ticket in a cobra, and I've driven over 10K street miles. Insurance isn't bad, I pay about $350 a year for full coverage and a $45K stated value.

But I think there are some other intelligent reasons for selling soon after building.

Building a car like this is a long term project. From inception to completion, it's often 3-4 years. In that time frame, lots of things can change: job, financial, family, or health status.

When you're planning the build, you have certain goals in mind. 3-4 years later, those goals may have changed. You planned and built a healthy street car. Then the road racing bug bites you. Now the car you have requires so many changes, it's easier and cheaper to start over.

Building the car is a lot of fun. It's a great hobby that can really fill your winter week ends. Sure beats TV. Once it's done, then what do you do? Sell the car, and build another one.

When looking at a "used" kit car of any kind, ask the seller why it has so few miles on it. Be sure and notice how the car is built and equipped. Think about what you plan to do with it, and make sure the car is capable. You want something that can easily grow as you grow. For example, Classic Roadsters makes an excellent kit. It's well designed, very safe, and looks killer. It's an excellent platform for a fun street car, or a drag car. But it's not all that good for open track, autocross, or road racing.

There are a variety of reasons that you will find low-mileage cars:

1 - Thinking that these cars represent an investment/quick profit potential. Due to the number of cars on the market and the ready availability of new cars, it rare to generate a profit on these cars. Nonetheless, you will see new low-mileage cars in this category. And unfortunately, you will see cars that may have cost well into the $60K range that are worth in the 30's and 40's in the market. Buy used if you can. Take advantage of the club. Members will look at a car with you and will help you determine value and condition.

2 - Boys with too much money - They see it, they want it, the see a new toy, they want it

3 - These cars are not for everyone - They are noisy, can't be driven in inclement weather, are tough in the sun, but a blast. If you can't put up with it or don't enjoy it, you will sell the car quickly

4 - You misrepresented the car to your wife - You said honey, you will enjoy going out tooling around with me in my fancy car. Some really enjoy it and others hate the cars and refuse to ride in them. If you intend to have your wife ride with you on trips, have her go for a test ride first. If she hates it, buy a Vette.

5 - Too much car - You may see a high percentage of VERY low mileage cars with MONSTER motors - 500 plus cubic inches or very radical small block. These cars can be scary to drive and typically are not much fun to drive around casually. You will think that you will do a lot of racing, perhaps, but these cars are not good on the track and are dangerous unless they have been fully prepped including roll cages, etc. Plus, you will get whipped by Mini's. If you want to race, buy a racecar. Keep it reasonable for the street and the car will be a lot more fun. You will read a lot of posts by people claiming that their particular model car will beat anything on any track under any conditions, but they are not racing competitively in any class, where weight, tires, engine size and mods are regulated. And speeds above 120 are simply downright scary. Avoid the horsepower wars!

6 - It's just a Ford motor.... Well, yes, but most are high performance after-market motors. Some are built well, and some... not so well. A basic carb motor with a not-too-radical cam will provide pretty reliable service. Elaborate fuel injection or exotic engine bits can cause fits and make the car unpleasant to own. Rely on the advice of club members but always ask them who actually maintains their car and what percentage of the time their car actually runs well. You may be very surprised.

There are more reasons NOT to buy a Cobra than there are to buy one. But if you have the cash, don't expect to make it a daily driver, and enjoy the heck out of driving a brutal remnant of the 60's, you will really enjoy owning one.

People sale every thing they buy. How many other cars are on lots for sale that are 6 months old and very low mileage? People are from America, they want what they don't have.
The biggest thing is: I have had my car for 6 years and only have 11,000 miles on it. I drive it alot. These cars will probably always stay in low mileage categories. They are generally not grocery getters or commuters.

I'm speaking only for myself, but I really enjoyed the process of building the Cobra and would consider selling mine to get another to build. I've found that collector insurance is very reasonable and maintenance very minimal. As far as getting a speeding ticket every time you back out of the driveway goes, that takes some personal control, these little cars can bring out the kid in you.

I have a few theories.

First, the weight to power ratio can be around 5:1 or even less. This puts the car in the 1 in 10,000 category or so for weight to power ratio, typically exceeding both the ZO6 'Vette and the Viper, both of which can be a handful (read scary) for the inexperienced. The amount of power available in a Cobra must be used judiciously by a skilled and experienced driver, or things happen much too fast. Somewhat like a Cessna 180 pilot jumping into an F-16 without the proper transition training. This monster acceleration is one of the reasons we love the car and thrill to it... but it's a cannon with a hair trigger for the unprepared.

Next, most Cobra replicas stay faithful to the 90" wheelbase... which is just about as short as you will find for a street-driven motor vehicle. This is one of the characteristics that contribute meaningfully to the tremendous agility of the car. And, the agility, as with the power, is a major contributor to the thrill of driving. But just as the phenomenal acceleration, with this incredible agility comes the need for great anticipation and quite skillful driving techniques in order to be safe driving at anything other than very moderate and conservative speeds.

Somewhat like a beginning violinist squawking away making all within earshot cringe at the sounds, propagated the saw that one should never attempt to learn to play the violin until they already know how... a paradox - to be sure.

So, many of us have coveted a Cobra since the first time we saw one. Then, with family demands and other involvement's, postpone ownership until later in life, after having driven Volvo station wagons for 30 years (not a prime example of automotive performance).

From there, we jump into the F-16 with very little or no transition instruction. And just as sure as the goose pimples rise on our backs, we scare the wee-wee out of ourselves. That's likely the best outcome. I know of five fatalities (none in state) where within the first few months of ownership the phenomenal performance of the Cobra was simply too much for the novice Cobra driver. Over confidence? Maybe. Under-skilled, maybe. but "fatalities" is the operative word in this paragraph. After satiating my curiosity as to what happened, ALL of the fatalities were single-car accidents where a loss of control contributed to the outcome. In trying to ply my seretonin deprived brain for the other three or four accidents of which I am aware, all but one were in the first year of ownership, and all but one involved loss of control of one type or another.

You gotta hang on to these puppies, guys!

When I first bought my Superformance Cobra (a factory "roller" with almost perfect assembly) I sought to purchase insurance for it. Two major insurance companies declined to provide insurance, but get this: They refused to insure the car during the first year of ownership only. Thereafter, they were willing to write policies on the car. This says volumes about the actuarial calculations (think actual experience) for the likelihood of insurance claims during the first few months of operation for a new driver of a truly exotic and incredibly responsive sports car.

Would you truly welcome having your daughter on the back of a motorcycle where the driver had just purchased the machine and had only last week procured the motorcycle endorsement on his driver's license??? Aughhhh!

And an unrelated theory... Do you recall the movie A River Runs Through It (which debuted about 10 years ago)? As a fly fisher for over 40 years and a student of the streams and fishing trends for the duration, I say that I have never seen any event that anywhere close to equaled the exposure to the art of fly fishing than that movie. I dare to estimate that the streams around Colorado, Wyoming, and Montana (where I regularly give rainbows and browns sore lips) endured over twice or more the fishing traffic for the next three years or so. fly fishing became the new "must-do" fad for the entire generation of yuppies. I had never seen such an army of bungling wannabes or purported fly fishers before, easily identified by their new and unfaded incredible gear, and their lack of courtesy and talent on the stream. I must admit it was just a bit comical to witness newbies with perhaps $3,000 in eso teric fishing gear and clothing providing an outdoor style show, and retirement income for fly shop keepers. With $3,000 in "the best" gear, and maybe one to three fish the first season, what's the cost per fish?

But, it didn't last long. The great majority tried the sport and went back to tennis, bad-mitten, croquet, and maybe even golf.

Where's my point??? A lot of folks bought/built Cobra replicas with the expectation that they would enjoy it more than they actually did. After the first 3rd degree burn on their forehead, they determined that this cruising stuff might not be the exactly what they had in mind after the novelty wore of just a bit. "I came, I saw, I conquered... now where's my tennis racquet!!!

Final comment... few owners put very many annual miles on their cars. 2,500 miles or less in a season would be a generous estimate, based on several of the fellows I know (excepting the annual Colorado tour folks who have a ball with their cars and friends for a week in the summer each year). Many, (like me) get just as much pleasure from tinkering on the car as driving it... so all the pleasure is not necessarily in driving your Cobra. And, some insurance companies limit the amount of miles you can drive your Cobra in an insurance year. Some would likely drive more but for this restriction. And, I need not say more about those of our brethren who venture out in January.... only to shiver home and put the car on blocks until May. In all, these cars get many less road miles per year than a normal car or especially a daily driver. Driving a Cobra is a special event to be savored.

These aren't all the reasons there are quite a few Cobra replicas on the market with very low mileage, but I think I have hit a few valid ones.

That's my story, and I'm sticking to it

Thomas,

There many reasons people sell their Cobras with low mileage. But I think these are the main reasons, Cobras do not have the luxury of the daily car we drive. Like no CD player (no radio) they are loud, most have no tops it can be a miserable drive if it starts to rain and can get very cold or the car gets very hot inside the drivers compartment during hot summer drives. these are just some of the reasons people sell them and buy a corvette. To answer your question about cobras reliability they will be very reliable if they are maintained properly.
Fortunately the maintenance is minimal.

IMO because they are more basic and raw compared to what they have driven
before...
and probably the wife or girl friend is not happy either....

Thomas,

These are a lot of opinions and that is great.  You will find that there are a lot of opinions on these cars.  The three most important parts of finding the right car for you and not selling it in the first year is Research, Research and Research.

Research what these cars really are.  Ride in one.  Have your wife ride in one.  Talk to people about the cars they have and what they like and dislike about them.

Research the manufacturers. Go see the manufacturers.  You are going to be driving these cars at a high rate of speed (Some of the time) and risking your life and your wifes.  See what the car manufacturer is all about. Do they have a shop and actually work on cars or just buying some parts and shipping them out to you?

Research who will put the car together for you. Are you going to do it? Can you do it? Do you have the tools?  Would you drive something you made?  If not - who is going to put it together for you? 

And last but not least - check out the used car market on these.  There are a lot of people who did not do their research and are now trying to sell you their mistakes.

Have fun,

Dr Cobra
 

 

 
Question:

Dear Dr Cobra,

I need a recommendation for a ClearBra installer in your area? Do you know of one? I bought a 2007 Infinite G35 Coupe a couple of weeks ago and I'd like to get that front end protected soon!

Merry Christmas, ya'll!

Bra Less Coupe

Answer:

Dear Bra Less,

Have you checked Victoria's Secret ? Just kidding - here is some help for you and your coupe.

Dr Cobra

Dick I have a guy his name is Terry Teske and he is at 303-898-4167. He did my Cobra and dose a number of high end cars. Anyone is welcome to come see what he did for me. I have sent a few other club members to him.

Hi, Dr Cobra and Bra less…. May I recommend Mark Killmer, of Jazz it Up, on Arapahoe near Peoria. He does wonderful work, and his prices are right… P.S. They do take appointments,,, Talk to Kat….

Paragon Motors (Arapahoe Road across from Centenital airport) has a sub-contractor who works there (I can not remember his name), who does fantastic work. He trains the 3M clear bra installers in town. Mention the fact that the Mile High Cobra Club referred you, and he will give you a discount.

Hi Dick- We have a person who does all of our Clear bra and tint work here @ Centennial. His name is Brian Matthews, Clear Bra Experts, 303-995-8956 He does all of our Highline cars and is VERY good.

 

 

 
Question:

Dr Cobra,

I am getting ready to paint my FFR Cobra before spring time, It will be whimbeldon white with guardsman blue stripes.

Are there any dimensions that would be correct for the stripes??

Thanks in advance, Gar

Answer:

Gar,

I like your color combo.  We can't wait to see it.  Here are the answers from our experts on stripes. 

Dr Cobra

Note that the stripes are tapered for the best look.

This PDF is available on the ERA site. Search for stripe.

This is the link:
http://www.erareplicas.com/427man/stripes/stripes.pdf

http://www.erareplicas.com/fiaman/body/stripes.htm

10" wide, 1" between strips. The stripes should taper to 9" wide from the front cowl to the nose..

Go to ERA's website ( ERAreplicas.com I think) and go to their 427SC index and then go to "stripes"

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